On the other hand, Hanka feels that there is a different approach to the concept (and fashion in general), particularly among a new generation of fashion designers, researchers, writers and curators. This vanguard is motivated by the “sorry state of the fashion system and its exploitative labour practices, environmental pollution, depletion of resources and exclusionary marketing language among other things,” and is not only “critiquing the system, its individualistic approach and its limiting views on the concept of luxury, but also seeking to create alternative, more inclusive ways of defining luxury.” Issue #1 places emphasis on these new approaches, ideas and propositions.
One contribution which is particularly dear to the Press & Fold team is from Join Collective Clothes, a project by Anouk Beckers which is about creating a modular clothing system that invites people to create clothes together. “An open source manual explains how to make four different shapes that together create a complete outfit. Everyone is invited to design and make a piece of a garment,” Hanka tells us. You can join from any place in the world by downloading the manual from Anouk’s website or by joining one of the workshops and together, the pieces made by various makers form an ever-growing collection. “It is a beautiful project, that addresses important themes such as ownership, identity, originality and authenticity in a very honest and inclusive manner,” she continues.
With several other notable contributions, including an essay from Chet Bugter in which he makes a plea “for a more embodied and affective approach to creating fashionable imagery, and believes this can be used to reconfigure the fashion system on a wider scope towards being more inclusive,” Hanka hopes issue #1 will present how the days of luxury meaning “abundance, opulence, extravagance” are over. “With this issue of Press & Fold,” Hanka concludes, “we hope to show there is a richness in community: creating together, performing together, learning together, regaining agency together and experiencing joy together. We hope our readers – a lot of which are art or design students – will be inspired to follow their own path in this context.”